Surf the secret spot at dawn's first light...decent conditions with some zippy sets rolling through.
Was surprised at how well I can get my 10' 6" board to move along the face of the wave, escaping some near lip descending disasters. I have perfected the High-Line approach and try to stay in that position until I can descend and perform a decent bottom turn.
One of my goals is to learn how to surf my longboard like a shortboard, riding across the open face and pulling cut-backs and off-the-lip drops. I'm getting better, but my board is really too cumbersome to get it to react as quickly as a shortboard.
Everyone was catching some beautiful NORCAL stoke, with the occasional ½ Rainbow appearing in the distant ocean…can only wonder if that were all of the great rides were coming from…
Here b the pics:
PABS . . . Those lefts look AMAZING! OMG, no crowd either? Wow. . . . I'm gonna have to check you out some time. What do I need? A 5/4? I don't even own a 4/3, but I know I need to invest in one. I am stoked to see these pics. It looks so clean. The first pic of the guy high-lining it on the longboard going right is cool. I hear you about trying to ride a longboard like a shortboard. I transitioned from a longboard to a medium board before learning how to turn. I've only trimmed on a longboard. I'm sure you'll be ripping in no time. Keep it up!
ReplyDeleteU will need a 5/4 with a hoodie and booties, gloves can be optional (I don't use them) if you aren't bothered by the 50 degree water touching your hands. ;-)
DeleteI have an extra 5/4 suit that I could let you borrow...I keep all of my suits pretty clean, despite the occasional pee that maybe spilled.