Snuck away from work for some afternoon stoke at the secret
spot, after being a bitch and not waking up at 5 am to surf Dawn Patrol...I
paid the price for that mistake!
Wind chop and little lame limp-dick closeouts abounded.
To
top it off, went out leash-less and on the first wave I somehow manage to catch
and ride, I forget my non-lease capacity and dismount off of the wave losing
the board. Board pushed inside, making me a floating afternoon appetizer for
the Man in the Grey Suit.
I stayed focused and swam towards the board, alternating from
swimming to floating on my back and letting the incoming slop push me towards
my salvation. Nice workout though.
Anyways, ran into Surfer Chris, who was headed out as I was headed in...getting in a double-shesh for the day.
The pics are of him
attempting to find some worthwhile stoke for the conditions.
The gif sums up how I have been feeling of late...stuck in a
vicious repetitive cycle of lunacy and foolishness...trying to just get through
each day keeping my eyes on the horizon for some more water time.
Thank god for
my job...laying the foundation for some serious stoke-fueled fun in the summer
and early 2013.
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