No. 57

Surfed the Secret Spot, first time since the injury, with Surfer Chris…thought it would be smaller, but was instead delivered an awesome sight of multiply firing peaky-peaks filled with steep drops and fast faces…especially a sweet looking left, itself winking an invitation that I couldn't refuse!

This wave has a special magic all to itself...because, even when everywhere else is flat or inconsistent, this spot will fire...providing you with some really great memories…and bad ones, if you abuse the privilege and get lazy. I ought to know…hence the reason why I haven’t surfed her for a while.

But I digress, was crunched for time so hit it early…first in and first to ride but a taste of what was to come.

Thought the buoy had read 5.5 @ 8 sec, with a predominately SW swell, every 15 min (using the watch to time sets) a beautiful set of 3 to 4 waves, each one jacking further up, would roll through…if you found the proper place to set up shop, you'd get yourself one of those seriously fun lefts…I had 3 of them that made me feel whole again.

Of course, I mistimed one those waves and ended up playing "Ragdoll within the foamball"! All in all, a great day in NORCAL.

This weekend is looking VERY GOOD…West Swell 2-4 @ 17 sec for Sat and 3-5 @ 13 sec for Sun…looks like the secret spot will be busy.

Here b da pics: