Monday, October 8, 2012

No. 59

The long-interval ground swell has returned in full, with the secret spot unveiling a beautifully adored NORCAL morning filled with cold-fueled bombs of numbing energy, as the 3’ @ 12 second conditions defied expectations.

Was first on it, catching some deep drops that had me scrambling to make the pitchy sections before the cascading curtain closed its invite. Was content but still hungry for more…Tuesday NORCAL is calling for 3’ @ 21 sec, which means more bombs to be ridden.

Had fun with surfer Chris and Kevin, whom each caught some really nice rides.

Here b the pics:

4 comments:

  1. looks fun pabs!! that first pic looks like a long, down the line canvas just begging to be drawn on!

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  2. Man, to surf a place where you can just park on the sand like that? You definitely have a unique surfing experience up north. Those sections look so long. I wonder if you were able to get down the line and make of of them. Sounds like that long-interval is getting longer. I can't wait to see the next post to see how juicy it is. I got skunked this morning. Too much wind and tide was too high. Good for you.

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    Replies
    1. Yep...makin down the line as fast as I can without getting clipped by the lip is the normal routine with these finicky beach breaks!

      NORCAL definitely has its' advantages (less people) and disadvantages (cold and vicious water)...but I wouldn't trade it for the best reef break in Bali...well maybe for a short-time! ;-)

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